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Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples), Agrigento, Sicily |
“The climate’s delicate; the air most sweet.
Fertile the isle, the temple much surpassing
The common praise it bears.”
— Shakespeare
I could write—and, indeed, have written—many pages about Sicily. However, I’m hardly the first person to be taken with the island’s complex history, natural beauty and unique charms, so for a change I would like to share the words of other writers, whose perspectives, combined with pictures from my recent visit, make for a woefully incomplete (but very poetic) look at the place. I hope it may whet your appetite for more, as I never tire of convincing people to visit!
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Scala dei Turchi (Stair of the Turks), Realmonte, Sicily. |
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Cattedrale di San Givanni Battista, Ragusa. |
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Valle dei Templi. |
“This is the homeland of the Gods of Greek mythology. Near these places, Pluto abducted Persephone from her mother. In this wood we just walked through, Ceres ceased her swift running and tired of her fruitless search, sat on a rock, and despite being a goddess, she wept, the Greeks say, since she was a mother. In these valleys, Apollo pastured his flocks; these groves, stretching down to the seashore, have echoed with Pan’s flute; the nymphs got lost under their shade and breathed their scent. Galatea fled from Polyphemus and Acis, close to succumbing to the blows of his rival, enthralled these shores leaving his name here … In the distance you can see the lake of Hercules and the rocks of the Cyclops. Land of gods and heroes!” — Alexis De Tocqueville
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Valle dei Templi. |
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Valle dei Templi. |
“Sicilians build things like they will live forever and eat like they will die tomorrow.” — Plato
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Valle dei Templi. |
“For over twenty-five centuries we’ve been bearing the weight of superb and heterogeneous civilizations, all from outside, none made by ourselves, none that we could call our own.”
This violence of landscape, this cruelty of climate, this continual tension in everything, and even these monuments of the past, magnificent yet incomprehensible because not built by us and yet standing round us like lovely mute ghosts; all those rulers who landed by main force from every direction who were at once obeyed, soon detested, and always misunderstood, their only expressions works of art we couldn’t understand and taxes which we understood only too well and which they spent elsewhere: all these things have formed our character, which is thus conditioned by events outside our control as well as by a terrifying insularity of mind.”
― Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa
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Sunset from a lighthouse. |
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Ragusa Ibla, Sicily |
“In Sicilia abbiamo tutto. Ci manca il resto.” — Pino Caruso
(“In Sicily we have everything. We’re just missing the rest.”)
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Valle dei Templi. |
(“We were the Leopards, the Lions; those who will replace us will be little jackals, hyenas; and all of us Leopards, jackals and sheep, we’ll go on thinking ourselves the salt of the earth.”)
― Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa
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Macalube, Aragona, Sicily. |
“Per me la Sicilia ha una luce particolare, qualcosa di primordiale. Io non sono nato in Sicilia anche se mia madre è di Palermo. È come se con questa terra ci fosse un richiamo anche più lontano della mia esistenza, che appartenga alla mia memoria. Scrivo volentieri qui, c’è un’aria speciale, istintiva. Non mi va neanche di dargli un nome sennò darei dei confini che non ha.” — Emanuele Crialese
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Scala dei Turchi. |
“There it was again: the sweeping verbal gesture magnified in the prism of Sicily, the pronouncement so poetic it nullified any arguments before they could take their first breath. The vines, the amphorae, the thousands of years of history, the palmenti, the volcano, the beauty, the power of it all. In Italy, of course, beauty is next to holiness. Sicily was long the most treasured daughter of the Mediterranean. So who can teach Sicily anything about beauty?” — Robert Camuto
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Fountain, Ragusa, Sicily. |
“All of Sicily is a dimension of the imagination.” — Leonardo Sciascia
“Raccontano, infatti, che secondo il mito la Sicilia è sacra a Core poiché qui avvenne il suo rapimento e perché l’isola fu offerta alla dea come dono di nozze.” — Plutarco
(“They say, in fact, that according to legend Sicily is sacred to Persephone since her abduction took place here and because the island was offered to the goddess as a wedding gift.”)
In Zanzibar
Fruit falls from trees–
Like shimmering coins–
And is trampled underfoot.
No one wants to sell it
When tourist dollars
Taste so much sweeter.
In Zanzibar
Living is cheap
But being a peacock
Is free.
Proud muscles;
Proud feathers…
Looks the same to me.
In Zanzibar
The clock starts
At 6 o’clock–
It’s rarely on time.
The sunset is melted caramel
On heaving tides,
But no one wakes for sunrise.
In Zanzibar
If you read between the lines
Hakuna matata doesn’t really mean
No worries.
In Zanzibar
Glittering veils drape
Over hair piled high,
But eyes are dull.
In Zanzibar
Alcohol is haram
But Konyagi is cheap–
The rules change at night.
In Zanzibar
The sky is heavy
And God is white.
In Zanzibar
Pole pole’ is a slogan
Crafted from handicap.
In Zanzibar.
The rain is sudden.
In Zanzibar.
The colors are hard.
In Zanzibar.
Life is white and black.
In Zanzibar.
Paradise has cracks.
In Zanzibar… In Zanzibar… In Zanzibar.
In Zanzibar
Fruit falls from trees,
And I want to pick it up.
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(It’s not as deserted as it looks.) |
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Bonus: Massive double rainbow spotted last week! |
Everything you see is certainly true, but it is only one piece of a 1,000-piece puzzle.
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Wake up to this. |
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Run through the jungle… |
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To this, the “other side” of the island, also known as Long Beach. |
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Run back to this and paint these: |
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Spend the night bar-tending or enjoying an open no-mic night. |
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And a few shots from Angkor Wat… |